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Sailmarket Story #1:

Bermuda Cruise - October ‘98

This account was written by Robert Ash, Robert Stevens, Robert Beaumont and Mary Beth Watt. It was edited by Robert Ash and Robert Beaumont.


 

With the cold winds of October and November starting to blow, memories of passages to Bermuda shiver into my consciousness. Gratefully, but not without some regret, I remember that this year the boat is safely "on the hard" and I can look forward a warm, dry, safe… unexciting Fall. Last Fall, this was not so.

The following is the edited ships log of the sailing yacht Crimson Permanent Assurance (CPA) during a passage from Saint John, N.B., Canada to St. George's, Bermuda. The log runs from Saturday, October 17, 1998 through Friday October 23, 1998. The CPA is a Beneteau First 345, production sloop.

The ship's crew were:
Robert Stevens - (RS or HR);
Robert Ash - (RA);
Mary Beth Watt - (MB or MBW);
Robert Beaumont - (RMB);

Due to the timing of the Atlantic hurricane season and the Atlantic winter gale season the North Atlantic allows only a small window for small boat passages south. This means that wise sailors who are headed to the Caribbean for the winter usually leave port between October 1 and November 1. Sailing to the Caribbean via Bermuda is attractive because, due to a semi-permanent weather formation called the "Bermuda High," it is usually a "reach" (easy sailing) to Bermuda. In comparison, it is usually upwind (horrible sailing) when you sail down the coast of the United States.

That being said, it is still not for the faint of heart.

 


 

Date

Time

Events

Initials

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 1

 

 

 

 

 

 

10:00

Editors Note: RA, RMB and MBW brought the boat through the Reversing Falls on the 7:00 AM slack. HR was running around collecting dinghy's and other necessary stuff. I (Rob Ash) ran into the office to get the latest weather maps off the Internet. (I couldn't believe it, there were people working at 10:00 AM on a Saturday. Maybe they thought I was working too) Weather looked good, or at least not too bad, i.e., no hurricanes. We then went and had a fabulous last-breakfast at "Reggies"

 

Saturday October, 17/98

Departed Market Slip, Saint John NB

RS

Filing Sail Plan CPA

4 Persons

6-10 Days

(506) 636-4792 Call from Bermuda

10:20

Harbour Buoy - Set course @ 200 T

RS

12:00

Way Point 13 made - Course changed

RS

13:46

Winds out of NW dropping

RA

Sunny… all’s well

Sail flapping becoming irritating

23:00

Wind WSW 10-15. Reaching nicely at

RMB

About 6-7 mph. Seas 1-2 very comfortable.

Cold as hell, thank god for the floater suit

 

Editors Note: Rob Beaumont and I (Rob Ash) called our parents with the boat cell phone before it went out of range. It is a good idea, whenever possible, to reduce parent worrying-time. This was made clear to me when after my first trip to Bermuda my dad explained to be that he would prefer if I would wait until he was dead before embarking on another such journey.

23:21

Wind SW 10-15. Mary Beth on watch

RA

6.78NM from Lurcher Shoal WPT. All’s well!

October 18/98

03:00

Winds continuing out of SW dipping moderately

But 5-6 mph being maintained

07:00

Winds light from SW, Beaumont on watch as of 6:00

Ship on horizon to the east.

09:00

Beating away

 

Editors note: I (Rob Ash) came on watch after a good nights sleep. The weather was beautiful but the wind had come around so that we were on a port tack, hard on the wind. This often foreshadows a low.(storm)

09:30

43 21.10' N

RMB

66 24.36' W

C160 (130 M)

German Bank, SW of Nova Scotia

Out roughly 23 1/2 hours, complete 117 nm

On track for a 120NM day 1.

Good progress

Winds from SW 10-15, making 6-7, close hauled

Seas 2'. Easy sailing. Barometer 1015 slight drop

Last 6 hours. Fair with clouds, occasional sun.

Big Sugar screaming out in the background, hope

H.R. likes it lulling him to sleep. Starting diesel to

Recharge battery#2.

Milestones to look forward to

120 nm to continental shelf 5,000+ M

300-nm to Gulf Stream

1 day and 2 1/2 days respectively

 

 

Day 2

11:00

43 14.89' N

66 21.76' W

C160(180 M)

Wind building 20-25 SW

R.A. and I put 2 reefs in main. Making 7-8

Seas 2’+ steady

Skies clear & sunny

Barometer rising 1017 (up 2 millibars)

16:25

Wind s/w 10-15 knots

RA

Getting warmer

Rob (HR) & MB on watch

Preparing to pick up Gulf Stream analysis on short wave

Hard on wind, starboard tack, not completely unpleasant

 

Editor’s note: When sailing close to the wind in large waves the boat will often slam. The bow comes out the water as it goes over a wave and then slams into the next one. This usually makes it quite uncomfortable below.

18:10

42 35.23' N

RMB

66 01.65' W

C171(190 M)

S 7 knots

Winds 25-30 SW, well healed

Seas 4-6, building

Barometer 1010 (drop 7 millibars since 11:00 hrs)

Scattered clouds

Editors note: I (Rob Ash) politely suggested to HR (It was his watch) that he change the 100% jib to the storm jib as we were getting knocked over. He valiantly wrestled it to the deck with waves going over his head. We were quite thankful as the boat then assumed a more comfortable gait.

 

20:10

Winds still 25-30 sw. Storm jib is up, 3 reefs in

RMB

main now for about an hour. Making 5-6 kts.

Seas subsided a little, much more comfortable.

Supper was boiled potatoes, corn nibblets and

another wonderful Mary Beth meat & mushroom

pie. Delicious! (Some people couldn't eat….

they will go un-named, but I think Rob Ash & I

enjoyed supper)

Barometer steady at 1010. Tonight I hope will

be smooth. Not as clear as last night but still one

very large & stary sky.

22:10

Seas 4-6'. Wind sw 30+ knots. The storm jib &

RMB

3 reefed main still up. Making 6-7 kts with the

smallest sail plan we have, hard on the wind. The

wind is making a low moan as it passes through

the rigging and sails. Every ten minutes or so the

waves gang up on us and one comes over the side.

Sky is still mostly clear, big sky, very majestic. It

is warmer tonight than last, we are 120nm further

south. The floater suit is nice & warm, would be

quite miserable without it. Having fun & loving it,

harness and all.

03:10

Under storm & idle motor. Winds 30 knots waves

RA

6-8 ft. NASTY!

Rob (HR) going on watch at same latitude as Province

Town, Cape Cod

 

Editors note: When at sea you are always trying to achieve the optimum balance of sail area, boat speed and waves. If you don’t always have the right sail combination at your disposal, sometimes the diesel can play a role. When things are not balanced the boat is extremely uncomfortable.

 

06:35

41 44.81' N

RMB

65 45.23' W

C

S 3kts

Under storm jib & idle motor. Just coming on shift.

Still feels sloppy & rough. The gale has blown us east of

our rumb line. (A line drawn between Saint John and Bermuda)

We are now on the 1,000 m gradient of the continental

shelf. First time on 3,000 ft+ of water.

Day 3

10:12

41 27.54’ N

RA

65 40.20’ W

Storm & idle motor. Sun breaking through.

Rob B and Rob A on deck.

Storm continues

35-40 kts 6-10 Ft seas

10:45

Begin Day 3

RMB

Day 2 - 118nm, not bad.

Wind still sw 30kts

Seas 6-10'

15:32

HR and MBW on watch

RA

Seas and wind similar strength. Wind veering somewhat.

We've been over taken by patch of startling blue sky

Checked water bags for leak, they seem OK.

Editors note: Water is very important. To lose all our water into the bilge, if the tanks failed, would be catastrophic. This has happened before. I usually check the tanks often.

18:35

Wind has started veering to the west and lost intensity.

RMB

After having only the storm jib & diesel for over 12 hours

we are back to storm jib & main with 3 reefs.

Making 5-6 kts

Seas are little confused, probably because of the shifting

wind. Every couple of minutes a really impressive 10-12'

swell rolls through, but beyond that, ok. We are not getting

knocked around as much as last 12-18 hours. Sky is

big, stars are bright. Little cool tonight, might be more

because the suit is a little damp.

Barometer fallen to 1005, might mean a change is on the

way. Will continue to watch it.

Earlier today (around 12:00) 10-15 dolphins came to play.

They would swim up on our starboard side jump out of the

water a few times then duck under the bow of the boat,

circle around and do it again. After 15 minutes or so they

went looking for new fun.

 

Editors note: Dolphins always mean good luck. When Rob (RMB) and I (Rob Ash) saw them we hooted, cheered and danced all over the boat. Even MBW, throwing off her chronic seasickness, got into the act. The storm was soon to be over.

N.B. Milestones- Passed the southern tip of George’s

Bank, though we are 120nm to the east. This would also

be the southern most tip of Long Island, NY, though that

is 400nm to our west

- 120nm to the Gulf stream.

Should reach it this time tomorrow (day4) night.

03:00

40 06.76’ N

RA

65 18.66’ W

Making good time in unsettled air with dark clouds. Under

way with triple reef main & storm jib. Auto starting to act up.

I took him apart but I fear moisture is in his brains.

We are now on the same latitude as Philadelphia (give or

take)

Editors note: MBW learned how to steer by compass. While I (Rob Ash) was taking AUTO apart MBW took the helm. After some initial difficulty, i.e., she tried to sail the boat back home, she mastered the task. Believe me, steering by compass is not as easy as it sounds.

08:00

Near same latitude as Atlantic City. Ocean floor is 5,000m

RMB

below us. Coming into an area on the ocean floor that has

a bunch of 1,000-2,000m mountains. Seas are confused

with a swell. Wind out of the west, gusting. Makes sail

selection a bit of wonder. Under storm jib and triple reefed

main, making 5 kts. Would like to put up more jib to drive

us a little less sloppy, but worried of the gusts.

Auto is being a very large pain in the ass. He starts beeping

every minute or so. Usually means the boat is off course,

but if Ash is right, Auto could be going loony.

Throwing him in the brig would mean hand steering, YUCK!

As I read this aloud to HR, Ash yells sarcastically at HR from the forward

cabin "nooo, we don't need to buy a spare Auto, Auto will never break".

Barometer still holding at 1005. Again, this means

change…but to what? We can’t get anything useful on the

weather-fax nor can we find a marine weather broadcast

on the short-wave radio. Suns been up for an 1/2 hour or

so, skies dull and gray looking. I hope it's just the angle of

the sun and not gray clouds!

Day4

10:00

Day 4 - October 20 - 128nms Day 3!

RMB

11:15

Water very warm. Either close to Gulf Stream or in an eddy

RMB

of the Gulf Stream

15:00

38 52.68' N

RMB

65 16.06' W

Hitting the warm water this morning was probably a Gulf

Stream eddy. The water is cold again. 3nm to trip midpoint!

20nm to approx. location of Gulf Stream.

Barometer steady at 1005. Sunny, partly cloudy. Strong

winds from West. Storm jib & triple reefed main make

7 kts.

15:30

Collective Soul blaring in the background, a shooter of Ouzo

RMB

each, the crew of the Crimson Permanent Assurance

celebrated the passing of the 1/2 way point.

20:30

We are definitely in the Gulf Stream. The water is warm and

RMB

the 2-3 kts is deflecting us by 40 degree off our course.

Interesting conditions. Big sky again tonight, very clear.

The wind is out of the west (we've been on a beam reach

most to the day) 15-20 gusting for long periods to 25.

The wind will be warm and humid one second and cool the

next.

Still only the storm jib and triple reefed main. With out gusts

making 5-6 with gust 6-7 1/2 kts. Seas 2-3 ft. Almost forgot

Rob healed Auto this morning (Thank god). He took his

brains out, started the diesel, placed them in the diesel

compartment. The warmth dried them right up & he is his hard

working, reliable self again.

00:02

38 12.83’ N

RA

64 54.15’ W

Still crossing the gulf stream. Current deflecting our progress

by 20 degrees or more. We are in area of some instability.

Stars with small cumulus clouds under which there are considerable

gusts. Speeds of 9+ not uncommon with storm & triple

reefed main. I'm about to awake Mary Beth W. Rob B going

off watch. In all other respects a beautiful night!

 

Editors note: This is one of my favorite parts of the trip. The waves weren’t too large (the boat was comfortable) and we were smoking. The sound of the wind groaning through the rigging was so awesome it was hypnotizing. I remember sitting in the companionway with a glass of scotch, chatting with MBW, occasionally checking the compass and watching the miles scream by.

06:15

Coming on watch for the end of Day 4. Boy do I want to wash

RMB

my hair. I've been picking clumps of salt out of it!

37 41.49' N

64 51.66' W

S6.9kts

C 175 (190M)

318 nm to Bermuda.

The Gulf Stream knocked us about 10nm east. Going to alter

course 5 degrees to starboard for 195M (180 T the variance

here move from 19-15 degrees)

HR turned on the diesel to charge the batteries. Shall wash

my face and see what the day has waiting for me

08:30

Suns Up! Not quite shorts & t-shirts yet. More like sweat

pants and sweater. But, then again it is only 8:30 am.

Wind from the west. Still a little unstable with gusts. Lots of

small puffy clouds. I have the feeling today will be shorts and

t-shirts. 2-4 ft swells from the west, making 4-7 kts on gusts.

Day 5

10:20

37 21.00' N

RMB

64 54.28' W

S5-6kts

C195m (180T)

The water is like bath water. We have all gone overboard,

while holding onto the ladder, being dragged behind the boat.

That plus copious amounts of shampoo and soap - we have a

happy, clean crew! The water is clear & aqua blue. Day four

was another 120nm day. We probably had a 130+nm day if

you take into account the deviation cause by the Gulf stream.

We are officially in shorts & t-shirts weather.

10:41

The crew is getting rowdy but they are smelling better. Shorts

RS

and t-shirts are out. Hanging off the back of the boat in the mid

Atlantic with thousands of feet of water is a different feeling. You

can't keep Jaws scenes from going through your head.

11:00

Awoke to the gleeful sounds of Beaumont and Ash getting

MBW

clean! Frolicking like dolphins off the back of the boat. I couldn’t

wait and Robbie (HR) followed very quickly. Those who haven't

eaten in 3 days will eat today. Those who’ve eaten

are cracking open the beer. The music is happening again.

We're a new crew.

12:15

We are basically 4 days out of Saint John and here is how warm

RMB

the water is… HR & I were just sitting on the bow dangling our

feet in the bow wake. Bath water! Why do we live where we do?

17:35

We had beautiful sunny weather all afternoon. Shorts & t-shirts

RMB

all afternoon. I think I burned my face (AC). 10-15 minutes

ago wind started gusting, we had full 100% and full main all

afternoon, had to change back to …. you guessed it storm jib

triple reefed main. So wind is gusting, sail reduced…we're

doing 6-7kts. The sky to the north is turning dark, bad omen.

20:00

The dark cloud to the north was a short disturbance that had

RMB

high gusty winds (25-35) and dumped a little rain on us. The wind

is from the west, on our beam, and the disturbance followed the

wind. It has passed over us, leaving the east. What we have now

is clear skies, big as all the other nights, and high gusty winds.

We're still moving along at 6-8kts.

The wind makes two interesting sounds at this intensity: a low

growling as it moves through the sails and a high pitched whistle/

shriek as it moves through the rigging.

23:59

After the clear sky, 2015 or so, clouds rolled back in and stayed.

RMB

No stars and a new moon make for a very dark and eerie night.

Driving blind.

Heavy winds, 6-7kts from westerlies at 20+ kts with gusts. The

regular sail plan is up.

03:00

Leaving shift. Mary Beth and Rob S on shift. Reaching under

RA

3 reef main & storm. 202 nautical miles from Bermuda.

Cloudy night with strong gusty westerlies slowly diminishing as the

night progresses.

Pos: 35 43.25’ N

64 47.73’ W

06:45

181nM to Bermuda. Little more than a day. Day 5 should turn out

RMB

to be a 140nm day. Bonus! If all goes well in Day 6, that should

put us into Bermuda Friday afternoon -vs- Friday night. After all,

you do want to be seen stepping off your boat!

Wind W and gusty. HR took down the main overnight, as a flash

of lightening caused concern. Prudent decision, better to be

caught with too little sail than too much. We have only the storm

jib up and things are dying down. Will start the diesel and run it

until dawn, then pull up more sail. The batteries need charging

anyway. Barometer still steady at 1005 millibars. Starting to

wonder whether it works!

35 23 03'

64 48 10'

S 6.0 (diesel)

C Bermuda!!

07:35

Sky is lighting to reveal an overcast, gray and rainy day. Steady

RMB

winds and calm seas is what's important. That's my wish.

09:35

Rain continues and its blowing like hell.

RMB

Day 6

10:20

Thrusday, October 22, 1998

RMB

35 02.36’ N

64 48.79’ W

C 180 (196 M)

S 6.4 kts

14:30

34 41.20’ N

RA

64 47.46’ W

Proceeding downward with poled and butterflied storm and

prevented main with 2 reefs. This is not producing steady speed

so we are also idling the diesel at 1500 rpm

Day is gray with occasional rain, sometimes heavy. Bermuda

Radio, we finally picked up at last, is largely unintelligible but it seems

to be indicating gales north of 36 degrees N around the Gulf Stream

(Glad we are not there and an incentive to make all speed for Bermuda). 1 day out from Bermuda 138 NM to go.

15:30

Still gray with occasional rain. Wind is NW. We are full main

RMB

and storm jib on a broad reach making 6-8kts. After 3 days of

beam reach no change. 132nm to Bermuda. I predict supper

time on Friday.

17:13

New record I believe; 6 sail changes in first 3 hours of watch.

RS

Now under motor, 20+ hours from Bermuda

20:18

Wind has veered to NNE. Doing 7-8 mph. Boat handling fine,

RA

surfing with 100% only. It's raining to beat the band.

23:00

Raining to beat all hell, very windy out of the NNE. We were

RMB

running the diesel for an hour or so, but the rattling has started

again so Rob A and I went out to put up the main triple reefed.

Cloudy, raining, new moon thus very dark…here starts the

Abott & Cosstello show. The main halyard slipped from my hand

as the boat rolled. Spent the next 10 minutes trying to grab it as

it blew in the wind. Succeeded with only damage being soaked.

91nm to Bermuda.

06:10

33 15.70' N

RMB

64 41.96' W

C 180 (195M)

S 5.0 kts

53 nm from Bermuda. Should be there in 10-11 hours. This

Should be my last watch - wind NNE, port side broad reach.

Still raining out. Let's hope it clears up for our grand entrance.

08:50

Wind still NNE, 25-35 kt range. Broad reach - port side, storm

RMB

jib, triple reefed main and smok’n, hitting 7-8 kts. There is a 6'

rolling sea hitting us in the port beam making things a little rollie.

34nm from Bermuda. Skies still overcast. The sun occasionally

finds holes to peek through. Not sure if it will clear. The horizon

to the east and south look pretty dark. Bermuda Harbour Radio

will transmit a weather forecast on short-wave in about 45 minutes

We'll see.

33 00.11' N

64 40.34' W

C180 (195M)

S 6.5 kts

Day 7

10:15

Friday, October 23, 1998

RMB

32 52.08’ N

64 39.92’ W

25.5 nM from Bermuda

130 nM on Day 6. Our largest day??? Average speed of 5.4 kts

for 24 hours.

13:10

Mr. Ash yells "LAND". This turn out to be a large somewhat land

RS

like cruise ship. However shortly after realizing it was a cruise

Ship, real land was spotted.

Editors note: I (Rob Ash) had been climbing up in the rigging all morning with the hope of spotting Bermuda. It is so low lying that you have to be very close before you can see it. In days not so long ago (without GPS) navigational errors would easily allow you to be over the northern shoals (The North Rock Shoal) before you ever saw Bermuda. One such occasion is described in Stan Roger’s haunting song, "The Captain of the Nightingale." This song haunted me all the way to Bermuda.

13:50

Reported in to Bermuda Harbour Radio. Canadian Coast Guard

RS

had forwarded our sail plan (useful tax dollars in action for a

change). Advised to report in again for instructions to see buoy

to Harbour 1 and 2.

15:20

Final approach to St. Georges Harbour

RS

15:55

Tie up at customs North east side of Ordinance Island,

RS

St. Georges, Bermuda.

Cleared customs and tied up (rafted) to Public dock.

RS

Saturday October 24, 1998.

RS

Closed sail plan with Fundy Traffic

Trip = 6 days; 6 hours (150 hours)

RMB

1000 Saturday October 17 - 1555 Friday October 23

 

Editors Note: All arrived safe and sound without incident - nothing was broken, no one was hurt – well, with the exception of HR’s black-eye and cut eye-brow. Ah, he’s tough as nails. The same cannot be said for other boats we observed arriving in Bermuda.

The trip was challenging, exhilarating and not for the faint-hearted. I would do it again in a minute. My lasting thoughts:

  • Thanks MBW for pre-preparing all the great food (lasagna, enchiladas, meat pies, soup) too bad you didn’t get any!
  • Those of the crew that were sea-sick did not utter a discouraging word.
  • Lord there was a lot of wind for six continuous days.
  • Did I say Lord there was a lot of wind for six continuous days.
  • How can there be that much wind and not a cloud in the sky?
  • The seemingly opposite but simultaneous sounds that gale force wind make as it moans through the sails and shrieks through the rigging.
  • Look at the size of that one!
  • Not much more and it would be really nasty.
  • Bloody Auto is a pain in the ass.
  • Thank god for Auto.
  • Big, clear, bright, starry sky.
  • Rain, heavy cloud and a new moon creates absolute darkness.
  • There are few things more beautiful than the sun rising from the ocean.
  • There is not another human being for hundreds of miles.
  • Closest land is 400 miles that way.
  • 15,000 feet of water.
  • Man the Gulf Stream is warm.
  • Man HR’s socks stink!
  • Land!
  • Small island in the middle of nowhere.

Editors note: We had a riot in Bermuda. Thanks go out to all the wonderful denizens of St George, in particular, Foupah and Alabama. HR continued his journey to the Caribbean and RMB, RA and MBW flew home to the now cold and gray Saint John.

The End!


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